48 Hours in Paris: A Real Itinerary for Food, Views & Slow Mornings
Paris in 48 hours sounds impossible, and in a way it is - you cannot do it all, but this guide covers the best bits (including hidden gems and touristy must-dos). My recommendation is pick two-three neighbourhoods, eat very well, walk a lot, and not have a rigid plan. This is the itinerary I send friends when they say they only have a weekend: light on museums, heavy on bakeries, with enough stops to feel like you actually saw the place.
Day 1 - Morning: Montmartre before the crowds
8:30am - breakfast and coffee at La Bossue (Montmartre). La Bossue is the most beautiful spot for a warm drink and a slice of cake - go for the hot chocolate and whatever is sitting in the cake cabinet.
10am - walk to Sacré-Cœur via the back streets. Skip the main funicular drag. Wind up through Rue des Abbesses and Rue Lepic instead. You'll come across more picturesque corners, independent shops and viewpoints. The white-domed basilica has the best free view of Paris; pay the €8 to climb the dome only if it is a clear day and I would definitely recommend entering the Basilica too - the interiors are as beautiful as the exterior.
11:30am - wander the artist square and Rue de l'Abreuvoir. Place du Tertre is touristy but still worth a look. The prettier shot is around the corner on Rue de l'Abreuvoir - the pink café (La Maison Rose) on the bend is the one you have seen on every Paris Pinterest board.
Day 1 - Lunch & Afternoon: bakeries, the Louvre & the Seine
12:30pm - lunch at Au Levain d'Antan (Montmartre). A small patisserie with some of the best filled baguettes in the area - perfect, affordable, and you can eat it on a bench on the way down the hill. Grab one to go.
1:30pm - if you're still peckish, stop at Cédric Grolet or Homer. Cédric Grolet is the world's most-photographed pâtisserie at the moment; Homer are specialists in lobster and prawn rolls. They're both the perfect snack to eat on the go.
2pm - Walk down through 9th District towards the Louvre. Book a timed entry in advance for around 2pm when the morning rush has eased. Pick three things you actually want to see (Winged Victory, Vermeer's Lacemaker, the Mona Lisa) but don't spend the whole day here - sometimes the crowds to see paintings mean you're viewing from afar.
4pm - rent a Lime bike along the Seine. From the Tuileries, cycle the riverside path past the Musée d'Orsay, over Pont Alexandre III, and on to the Eiffel Tower. €1 unlock and €0.25 a minute - it is the cheapest, fastest way to see central Paris.
Day 1 - Evening: Eiffel Tower at golden hour, then dinner
5:30pm - dinner reservations don't usually open until 7pm in Paris so use this time for a quick outfit change at your accommodation or - if you're going at Christmas time - wander round the Christmas markets beneath the Eiffel Tower.
7pm - Trocadéro for the view. Skip climbing the tower at sunset (the queue eats your evening). Cross the river to the Trocadéro terrace instead - you get the best photos but without the wait.
8:30pm - dinner at Maxim's. Once Paris' most famous restaurant, this spot continues to attract celebrities from across the world with their intimate dining, live jazz music and classic French dishes. If you would rather something low-key, eat in Pink Mama (a perfect Italian).
10:30pm - nightcap at your hotel rooftop. If you are staying at Terrass Hotel in Montmartre, head straight up - the rooftop bar has views over the whole of Paris with the Eiffel Tower lit up in the distance. Or pop into any cosy French wine bar for the perfect end to the evening.
Day 2 - Morning: pastries, the Marais & a perfect Paris breakfast
8:30am - breakfast at Copains. A cute cafe with good coffee and perfect pastries.
10am - The French Bastards for a second pastry. Yes, two. Their pastry selection covers all the OG options (pain au chocolat, kouign-amann, the croissant) done properly. Today is all about small bites and lots of walking.
11am - wander Le Marais. Narrow streets, vintage shops, the Place des Vosges (Paris's oldest planned square). It is the best neighbourhood for an aimless hour of shopping.
Day 2 - Lunch & Afternoon: Notre-Dame, Île de la Cité & a small luxury
1pm - lunch at La Baguette du Relais. Home of the famous steak frites baguette - great flavour, perfect lunch (it can get busy so it's give or take whether you'll have to queue or not). Best advice would be to take it away and eat it a bench by the Seine.
2:30pm - Notre-Dame Cathedral. The reopened Gothic icon on Île de la Cité is free to enter, but go early in the afternoon for the quieter slot. The architecture is genuinely beautiful and is a must-see when you're in Paris, even if it's just from the outside.
4pm - a visit to Galeries Lafayette. If you don't want to shop, you should visit the free rooftop terrace with an Opéra Garnier view - for the best free viewpoint in central Paris.
5pm - *watch lovers activity* pay a visit to Charly's. A very small shop with timeless, genuinely unique vintage pieces - worth seeking out if you collect, or just want to browse something most tourists never see.
Day 2 - Evening: a proper Paris night out
7:30pm - dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert. A classic neighbourhood bistrot with red leather banquettes, zinc bar tops and a menu of unfussy French staples done properly. The steak frites is the main event, but save room for the Paris-Brest. It is low-key, unpretentious, and exactly the kind of place you want for your final night in the city.
10pm - finish the evening at Moulin Rouge or the Champs-Élysées. The original cabaret is a proper Paris night out and special to see (book months ahead). If you skip it, walk up the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe and climb the 240-step spiral staircase for the perfect view of the twelve-avenue star.
Where to stay: Terrass Hotel, Montmartre
If I am picking one place to stay for a 48 hour Paris trip, it is Terrass Hotel in Montmartre. The rooftop has views over the whole of Paris with the Eiffel Tower in the frame, the rooms are calm and well-designed, and you can walk straight out into the prettiest neighbourhood in the city without dealing with the Métro every morning.
If Montmartre is not for you, base yourself in Le Marais or Saint-Germain instead - both are walkable to most of this itinerary.
What you need to know before you go
- Best time to visit
- April–June or September–October for the light and the queues
- Getting around
- Walk + Lime bikes along the Seine; Métro for longer hops
- Where to stay
- Terrass Hotel (Montmartre) for the rooftop and the walk-out neighbourhood
- Book ahead
- Louvre timed entry, Moulin Rouge, any dinner at Maxim's
- Budget
- From around €400/night accommodation; €60–100/day food if you mix bakeries with one nicer meal
Frequently asked
Is 48 hours enough to see Paris?
It is enough to fall for it - not enough to do everything. Pick two neighbourhoods (this itinerary uses Montmartre and the central Right Bank/Île de la Cité), commit to walking, and skip anything that requires more than an hour of queueing.
Which neighbourhood is best to stay in for a short Paris trip?
Montmartre for romance and views (this is where I stay - Terrass Hotel has the best rooftop). Le Marais for walkability and great food. Saint-Germain for the classic Left Bank café energy. Avoid anything too far from a central Métro line on a 48 hour trip.
What are the best bakeries to visit in Paris?
Cédric Grolet for the fruit sculptures, The French Bastards for the OG pastries, La Bossue and Au Levain d'Antan in Montmartre for an affordable, beautiful local stop. Copains for a proper sit-down pastry-and-coffee morning.
Do I need to book the Louvre and Eiffel Tower in advance?
Yes for both. The Louvre requires a timed entry slot - early afternoon (around 2pm) is the calmest. The Eiffel Tower lift sells out days ahead in peak season; if you have not booked, skip climbing it and shoot the view from Trocadéro instead.
Pair this itinerary with my full France toolkit
- Where to eat, drink & explore in France — the full local map of Paris bakeries, restaurants, accommodation and South of France spots.
- Tourtour: The Village in the Sky — if you want to extend the trip into Provence after Paris.
- Follow me on TikTok — for weekly first-hand food, drink and travel recommendations.
